Young Beautiful Things and Espresso Snobbery
I was on a coffee product comparison website recently
Not one of those sites which advises of the cheapest, or the most expensive coffee, or espresso money could buy…but rather, where some one called ‘The judge’ tastes and rates coffees
Sounds like a good idea… that is assuming that the taster actually has the credential to know what they are talking about!
In such a role of self imposed importance, it is essential that ‘The judge and juror’ is realistically able to robustly compare products and decide upon a benchmark from which the subjective conclusion of poor, good or excellent can then be attributed
The issue here, is that this site seems pretty professional… a bit of a touchstone for those on the ‘inside track’ in the new coffee trade…
And that is what worries me; because despite the ‘inside track’ referring to the new young, beautiful and hip elements within the trade, this site is a sad testimony to the same old stereo types and half cocked measures of quality, which have riddled and befuddled the coffee trade for generations….
What do I mean by this….? Well, simply that the blends with the hippest brand, the best packaging , the coolest name, seemed by an inevitable default to by and large achieve the highest star ranking…. It was a trend which struck me as I wandered my way through the top 30 listing… and there languishing with ‘minus stars’ was a product from Dallmayr
You may well say who?
Well – no less than perhaps Germany’s foremost premium brand, with a real, 300 year heritage and genuine back story trace able to 1671….Not some manufactured micro roaster or instant coffee expert / geek!
Yes dear ‘Judge’ Dallmayr are a German roaster NOT Austrian as you suggest!
Dallmayr has a long and respected history in the German market and their brand is a by word for quality
Their Café and Delicatessen in the Dienerstrasse in Munich, between the Marienplatz and the Odeonsplatz, plays host to over 2.5 MILLION visitors, selling +30t of coffee pa from this one site alone!
And, under head chef, Diethard Urbansky, Dallmayr’s Restuarant has two Michelin Stars! Their brand and luxury quality coffee is equivalent to Fauchon or Fortnum and Mason
The coffee ‘The judge’ had presided over, was Prodomo. It is the Dallmayr standard brand… and is a fine, stomach friendly, filter style coffee based on a high East African / Ethiopians and Centrals recipe…it is good… and possibly very good indeed!
The issue here is one of stereotypes and pigeon holing!
Foreign , large scale production is not bad
Brick pack is not bad
Branding based on primary colours is not bad
Vacuum pack and back flush is not bad
Roast and ground is not bad
And whilst we are at it ESE pod is not bad either
As soon as we move away from the trend of pigeon holing what we don’t know, or understand, or arbitrarily advising of the good, the bad and the ugly of the coffee trade the better!
Coffee is a broad church and what I may like you may abhor…but then the beauty is that variety is the spice of life!!
How a respected touch stone for quality can be given such a low rating for a fabulous product , road tested by millions of people, in billions of cups of coffee, for decades is beyond me… It is, I hope nothing more than the arrogance of youth…not a testament to it!!
Here at Aromo we are very lucky to have a taster we know as Yoda…
What Yoda doesn’t know isn’t worth knowing. He has well over FIFTY years experience in the coffee trade and used to supply our Royal Family with coffee… he knows his business… and he knows a rating is an opinion only …it is not gospel….!
Please do not let the blind lead the blind eh??!
This article was written by Guru (Andy G) who writes for aromocoffee.co.uk, the UK’s leading online retailer of 44mm E.S.E espresso coffee pods